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HalloMotor 48V 3000W FC-1 Powerful Electric Bicycle eBike Mountain with 48V 52.5AH Li-ion Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh Cells

E-Bike Specification
1. Frame: FC-1 FRAME
Material: Steel/2mm
Size: 18″;
Color: Black Frame
2. Front Fork: DNM USD-8 Bike Fork
3. Rear Suspension: DNM BURNER-RCP3 Air Suspension
4. RISUNMOTOR 34.9mm Aluminium Alloy Seattube Clipper
5. SELLE ROYAL 5130HR Ergonomic Seat with SR BLINKING LIGHT
6. RISUNMOTOR 78*140 Bearing Bottom Bracket
7. PROWHEEL Aluminium Alloy Chainwheel + Cranksets
8.RISUNMOTOR CNC Aluminum Alloy high density bearing pedal, super long life
9.RISUNMOTOR Aluminum Alloy Stand
10. Front wheel:
24×3.0″t; Front wheel (with 24×3.0″ Off-Road Tire or City Tire)
RISUNMOTOR Strong Double-wall Aluminium Alloy Rim
12g Spokes, NOVATEC DH hub (support disc brake)
11.Braking System:
TEKTRO AURIGA E-TUNE (HD-E530) Hydraulic Disc Brake, cut off power
TEKTRO 203mm Front & Rear Disc Brake Rotors
12. Groupset:
MICROSHIFT TS38-8 Rear 8-speed
MICROSHIFT RD-M25 Rear Derailleur
TWKY 8-speed Freewheel
TWLY E8 Chain
13. HONSUN Handlebar, Stem and Seatpost:
Aluminum Alloy Riser Handlebar (Width: 760mm)
80mm Aluminium Alloy Stem
30.9mm Aluminium Alloy Seatpost
14. 48V 3000W 24×3.0″ Rear Wheel:
RISUNMOTOR Strong Double-wall Aluminium Alloy Rims
High Quality 18 MOSFET 50A ±1 Sine Wave Controller (Support Regenerative Function, will charge battery during braking)
48V- 72V Universal Voltage Full color TFT RSM-750c Display (with 5-level PAS, speed limit, speed display, Cruise, Regenerative Function)
Throttle Drive / PAS Drive (Torque sensor simulated)
Remote start + Alarm + Motor Lock
Full Speed: about 60-70km/hour
15. Battery:
48V 52.5Ah Li-ion (Max Capacity, Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh Cells)
Mileage: About 55-60km with pure battery per full charge; about 70-80km with PAS


Features:  48V 3000W FC-1 Powerful Electric Bicycle eBike Mountain with 48V 52.5AH Li-ion Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh Cells
New From: $4,299.00 USD In Stock
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Great deals on fast 1500w to 3000w Ebikes

Eric Hicks
Hot-rodding an ebike is not as simple as some people might think. That is because you need to consider three critical interlinked components when hot-rodding, and if you don’t change all three components, your ebike probably won’t go any faster, and in fact might go slower or roast something. Think of it as the electric bike bottle neck…if one of your components can’t hold up to the extra power?…you’re not going anywhere faster, and…you might end up in the embarrassing position of pushing your ebike hot rod home.

If you have bought a commercial ebike and decide you want to go faster, you are not taking on an easy task. It is usually easier and cheaper to just start from scratch, and build an electric bike by converting an old mountain bike you have in the garage that no one is riding. Almost all commercially available ebikes are not very fast to start with, and they pick the cheapest three key components they can to achieve at most a 20-MPH top speed (without pedaling). You can’t just buy some aftermarket part or an upgrade kit that is going to give you an extra horse-power boost, and some extra torque, or extra MPH. The most you may be able to find is a strap-on battery pack that might give you some extra range…but no extra speed or power.

However, a DIY home ebike builder who may very well have started with robust components, might easily be able to modify or swap one component and get more speed.